Thank you for your encouragement! I am sure you will all find this a good thing to try.
Scott, spit-shining!?! I love it!
One question your article brings up. You say its important to wash the surface before applying Klear for decaling. I use mainly acrylic paint nowdays.Do you run the risk of washing the paint off by doing this, and if so,how do you get around this?
Nige, you bring up something I did not think to mention. The first P-40 and the Ki-44 Tojo are painted with enamels. The Grace is primed with acrylic aluminum of my beloved Polly Scale
, but the rest were primed with enamel silvers of various brands. Their exterior paints are all acrylic, Polly Scale
, Aero Master
and old Pactra
The Polly Scale
dries rock hard, quickly (in fact, the Buffalo was painted green, chipped, tape-masked and painted black, re-chipped and rinsed within 3 hours; the Ki-84 Frank was painted and allowed to cure a day, and I was not able to scratch any of the Polly Scale off!) I have soaked my models painted with Polly Scale
in water to soften liquid masks for removal--no problem.
reacts differently. Soaking, even heavy rinsing, my models painted with Pactra
in water causes the paint to blister--scores of little blisters. I first found this on a RAF F-4K I am building. Thinking it was ruined, I left in disgust. Returning the next day, the water had evaporated and the paint was smooth again! The green on the Buffalo is Pactra
, the yellow is Polly Scale
. Just washing the salt off caused the Pactra
to blister. By the next morning it was fine.
So, I have had no problem with washing or soaking off my acrylic paints in water.
Bio-degradable Simple Green
removes these acrylics quickly. So do some window cleaners. In fact, I am considering reworking the Frank's chipping by removing the Future with ammonia (which does not hurt the paint) and attacking the Polly Scale with Simple Green. Stay tuned!