Hi Guys

I’ve started up my Eduard DH2 project. It’s a lovely kit. The bad news was when Eduard released it that i already had six month working on the blue Max kit. So what I’ve think, but my children purchase the new one for Christmas.
Okay, another half complete kit on the shelf. No sir, I will get it finished. It will just take a little bit longer.
Here is where I stopped the blue Max…


Some improvements will be done to the Eduard kit.
Wrinkles were made of Milliput on the sides of the fuselages.



The etched seat didn’t look nice in my eyes, so I worked up a new one in plasticard copper wire and fishing line.


The instrument panel had one shelf opened for a missing ammunition drum.

I’ve started up the paintjob of the wings. As always a grey basecolor, then masking for ribs and spars, more painting.The brown wings is the underside.Remember to paint the shadows on the spares inverted.




Until next time, glue safely
Lars in Sweden

Lars, that certainly is impressive work so far.
Keeps us posted.

Hi Lars!

Very nice model so far!
I don't think Eduard's seat looks too bad (would be even better with a wash?) but of course yours is way better!!!
The "masking ribs and spars" technique is also very interesting! Thanks for sharing...

Jean-Luc

Greetings Lars,

As always very nice work! I like the wrinkles and the shadowing.

I was going to try it on lozenge but...my insanity was quickly put in check. Thank goodness for dinner.

"Remember to paint the shadows on the spares inverted."
Could you explain this to me Lars? I would like to learn the technique you used, as it looks great and adds a lot to the finished look. I am waiting on delivery of my Royal Fokker, which will be my first ever WW1 aircraft, so I need all the help I can get

i built one of these in 1/72 a while back, try not to let the rigging drive you insane :-)

Hi Lars

That's wonderful work on the interior!

I'm not sure I quite understand your description of achieving the shadows effect, but ironically I might actually be going to do almost the same thing on my upcoming Camel. I've been planning to paint the underside of the wing in a dark beige, then mask off the ribs and spars before overpainting with linen-colour. Once the masking's removed, I'm hoping the darker spars might give the sense of clear-doped linen.

All the best

Rowan

Hi
I described the method in the tread of the Nieuport 11. But here you have it.
Yes, Rowan your idea is working. Maybe my bad English, is the real problem
:-)
Is this what you are going for Rowan?


The top side of the wing

I first spray t a basecoat of (Humbrol 64 grey), and when this was dry i masked of the ribs with fine strips of masking tape.


Then i´m sprayed fine lines with the airbrush on the tapelines with a mix of black (Humbrol 33 and brown Humbrol 110, or 64). Do not use pure black it’s to strong, after drying I’d removed the tape.

After 12 hours of drying i clean up the wing from residue of tape with clinic petrol.

On the top side of the wings the shadings must be faint, its the sunny side

The under side of the wing

You have to do the paintjob somewhat inverted. I started with a mix of (Humbrol 33 and brown 64) as a basecolor. The masking goes on. then I spray the grey (Humbrol 64). After this the clear doped linen paints goes on.



I don’t know if i could explain the method any better this time, but its give me practise on my English. :-)

Here is what you guys is wainting for on the next update

It´s the riggings Phil,thats the fun part.
cheers from Sweden

Hi again Lars

Oh wow! Now I get it! I think that's a much more subtle and convincing effect than my way would achieve! Beautiful!

Many thanks for the extra explanation - I'll give it a try on the Camel.

All the best

Rowan

Hi Rowan
We want to see the camels progres.When the DH2 is finished, i will go for an Camel 2F1.Hannants delivered the datafile today
Cheers from Sweden

feature! feature! feature! :-)
lars, that looks brilliant, i simply srayed mine in a linen colour and it looks way too solid. the next WW1 aircraft i build, i will certainly try something like this.
nice job lars

Hi Phil
It’s not a difficult way to paint wings, just time-consuming. But I’ve think it’s worth the job. Good music helps a lot.
:-)

Lars

For me its movies while I build.

Ahhhhh, I get it now Lars. Thank you. The word "inverted" threw me off a bit. Better word would have probably been "reversed". Your english is fine though, and I see clearly what you mean. Now "clear doped linen", is this a color, or type of paint? Is this what you use for your overall clear coat, or just on the parts that are covered by linen in real life? Thanks again for sharing with us Lars.

Nils

Greetings all,

I have been very interested in the method Lars uses since his posting of the Nieuport 11 here on the forum. While I think its is great on Clear Doped Linen covered machines I am not so convinced it would entirely work on aircraft with camouflage painted surfaces.

This is not a critique of the method just my thoughts.

For instance the spars sit at a lower level that the ribs ( since the ribs are built around them) and on painted surface would not be so apparant. For instance on the image provided below.

Image courtesy of Rosebud's site.

Hi Stephen
Non critique taken
You have an interesting point, and I agree with it. On the upper side of the wing the shadows must be faint. On Pc 12, and darker colour it’s no use.
To get detailed and good pix for this forum I’ve had to throw a lot of light on the model.

When looking at the models in normal room light, they do not look like the pictures. Never use the paint straight from the tin. The black will be just too black, if you use it for preshadings. Soften it with some brown

The model world is always under attack from different influences, now its post/pre shadings. Remember Shep Paine, he told us to paint figures; Mister Verlinden told us to drybrush the figures and to poor thinned oilpaint in panellines.
What’s next, ho knows

Cheers
Lars

Inspirational stuff here Lars, particularly as I'm about to embark on my first WW1 subject, thanks
Mal

Hi Mal
Good luck with your first one. What are you going too build?
Cheers
Lars

Hi Nils

In modelling terms it's almost both: a pale cream colour to give the effect of linen with a translucent yellowish varnish on the original aircraft. On the real thing (and partly depending on the lighting conditions), the interior structure showed more or less visibly though the doped skin.

All the best

Rowan

Thanks Rowan. I do know what you mean. I also see, like Stephen says, that it probably wouldn't work well with a painted color scheme though. Lest Stephen thinks I'm apt to screw up that Royal Fokker I have coming, lol.

Nils

Hi again
Time for a little update on the DH2. Have sprayed the final paints on the wings and started some decaling.


The Pc 12 is a mix of Humbrols matt ochre 83, matt light olive 86 and gloss clear35. The varnish is just too given the paint a semi gloss finish, instead of total flatness.
I mixed my doped linen color from Humbrols from 71satin oak, black 33, leather 62 and gloss clear 35.


I tried too simulating the burnt oil effect on the fin and tail surfaces. Don’t know if I like the result myself.


The fuselage sides are painted, and the folds turned out nice I think.Still the Battleship grey too paint.


The engine cover is painted first in a silver/black mix. The grey is Humbrol 147. The paint was rubbed with a toothpick. I dint use the etched belts, just lifted the end of each belt with a knife.


Working now on the engine and the interior
Until next time
Happy modeling
Lars

Hi
Due too a work related injure in my right arm i’m not been able to deal with the hobby. But now the arm is starting too respond just fin. Time for a quick update.


The interior is finally finished. I added the fuel mixture on the left side, and the handpump to fuel







The lewisgun is still too being painted on the pics.
Assembling and riggings will be started next week
Cheers
Lars

Most impressive!

Thanks Stephen
Final assembly is just round the corner. I think the riggings will take a week or two.

I follow your work on Fokker thread. It’s very interesting. I’m more in too building a DVII myself. But going to stick with the Airco until it’s finished. This will give you guys another couple of weeks ahead.
Keep gluing

Lars

Hi Lars!

Same here! :-) The job you have done on the cockpit and the wings is extraordinary! Keep the pictures coming!

Jean-Luc

Hi
My arm is starting to follow my will now,this time its was to close.I´ve pu the top wing on the fuselage today. No problems,it went on nice and easy.

Only one strut to put in.

Next thing will be the engine.
Hope i´ve not bore you .
Lars

Hi
Time for an update. Some minor touch-ups are still too fix. Had too recreate the booms from carbon rod. The boom in the kit was not strong enough.










Next,time for some serious rigging

until next time
Lars

Sorry Lars I missed this. I'm building a Fokker D.VII (see the Royal Fokker thread) I'm really enjoying it. Although I don't have to worry about light showing the wing ribs I am intending to show the fuselage stringers/formers? by applying the blue paint lightly first, covering the stringers/formers with thin strips of masking tape then applying more blue paint

You DH2 is looking great, is it really neccesary to use carbon rod or would brass rod do? I intend to build one of these myself but I haven't a clue where to get carbon rod and isn't it expensive?

Mal

Hi
Ask in your local R/C model store. The Carbon rod was cheaper than the metalrod. But i think you can use brass or metal. The carbon was new too me, never worked with carbon..

Lars

Thanks I'll take a look. Is there any special bonding solution for carbon to plastic?
Mal