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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building the RFM Sherman
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 09:08 AM UTC
If you could add 12 dabs of glue and then 12 rubber pads before the glue sets this may work.

It Doesn't

The Instructions


So I did it My way.
Install 1 Chevron pad being careful of its orientation add a drp of glue.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 08:58 AM UTC
The assembly jig is useless

They have you place the chevron bottoms in the jig like so.

Then you lay in the connectors wich way depending on which side you want outside.

Then you are suposed to press them down, but you can't without removing the parts joining them together.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 08:53 AM UTC
I have all the Track parts separated & the paint touched up.
The assembly went as I expected it to Here is it step by step.

First the Parts breakdown.


The Tracks for this kit are Handed, the connectors have an inside edge and an outside edge.


OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 15, 2019 - 09:51 AM UTC
I have them Painted.

Donald
GeraldOwens
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 11:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The Plate one was more common.


With the interior detailing could an interior be far off?



That's all for now.
Donald


The plate style of drive sprocket was standard at Fisher, but the only "Easy Eights" they built were the M4A3 75 (W) HVSS, a rare type that nearly missed the war entirely, and the M4A2 76 (W) HVSS for the Soviets, though very few were received before war's end.

Chrysler used the scalloped, "Fancy" style drive sprocket, and this was seen on M4A3 76 (W) HVSS, M4A3 105 HVSS, and M4 105 HVSS. This build uses the correct sprocket, of course--just offering a head's up for those less familiar with Sherman minutiae.

Postwar, any type could be seen, as all the sprocket rings had the same part number, and were regarded as interchangeable when the sprocket needed replacement.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 05:04 AM UTC
Next I'll be starting the Track.
I'll be doing this a little diferently than I usually do it.
Since this Track is supposed to go together without Glue, I'm going to paint the parts first then assemble them.
You get 4 of these Sprue.

I trimmed off the small pieces of Sprue between the pads, this hopefully will mean less touch up later.

Here I glued the Guide Horns to the centers of the Conectors.

They want you to install these after the Pads are in place , I thing it will be easier painting this way.
Next the painting.
Regards.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 04:58 AM UTC
The Idler mounts need to be reamed out with a #42 Drill bit, this will make installing & adjusting the Idler Wheel easier.


And here it is.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 04:52 AM UTC
The Idler is next, it is adjustable so you can adjust the Track tension later.
First insert the fitting into the Wheel, as shown.

Install the retaining disc with a touch of glue in the center only.

Easy on the glue install the cover.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 04:41 AM UTC
Today I'll be installing the Trucks & other lower hull parts.
Firstly You should trim down the locating pins on the back of the trucks, or drill out the locating holes , the Trucks don't sit flat as shown here.


For the Sprockets, insert the Hubs .

Then install and glue on the Sprocket of your choice, they give you 3 different ones.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 04:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Wow, you are building it fast! Nice work and all that detail you make it look easy and its not. Thanks for putting all this up here


You'r Welcome, It's nice to be to get your comments .
More coming .
Donald
Shermania
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Posted: Sunday, July 14, 2019 - 04:25 AM UTC
Wow, you are building it fast! Nice work and all that detail you make it look easy and its not. Thanks for putting all this up here
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2019 - 01:15 AM UTC
The same goes for the Lower Hull.


The Dual Return Roller have been added.


I'm finished for now, I'll have more as soon as possible.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2019 - 01:06 AM UTC
I finally had some time to do some more work.
Now i'll be finishing the Wheels and assembling the Trucks.
Here I added a little Silver Pencil to the rub areas of the Wheels.

The assembled and painted Trucks, note the area that was masked off, this saves a lot of paint scraping.

I assembled the Idler wheels on the smooth part of a #42 Drill bit.
Just slide them on and glue them together. The Drill bit keeps them straight and the hole open.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Saturday, July 13, 2019 - 01:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Donald, thanks for taking the time to post this, I for one am reading every word, studying every picture.
I saw this kit at King's in Austin the other day and wondered to myself what it was like, and if it was worth the roughly $50. I think it is, and I think I need one......


It's worth every penny so-far.
Of course if you can get it cheaper that's even better.
Donald
rfbaer
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Posted: Thursday, July 11, 2019 - 10:11 AM UTC
Donald, thanks for taking the time to post this, I for one am reading every word, studying every picture.
I saw this kit at King's in Austin the other day and wondered to myself what it was like, and if it was worth the roughly $50. I think it is, and I think I need one......
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 09:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

There's a lot of nice weld detail.


src="https://5z7jww.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mD1zFYeX2wWS6Y1xwfW6x0kbc2sBxFvUYexCRQckbRuf2w5-DUhFBrGsBwRrT9sZsPtXGt2fZf2PTYEVxpydQUmYh0URKEGJhb3pQlcSnmrxX8MOCR3jpv7RxQtUO8s4mV5eVHctZCljATZCTZjByXJa1DUli48KXtKcKbvQzigqgsbFNRqioRb343sBdf_Y72dmhiyutt9t80QQpDs0Opw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none" width="660" height="495" />

Finished for now.
Donald



G'day Donald

Looking good. Just a small suggestion - drill out the ring at the top of the handle on the tow hook where your arrow is pointing.

Regards

Rob



You have to look realy close, the Pic. #05 shows it molded open, it just doesn't show so clearly in this color plastic.
Donald
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 04:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

With the interior detailing could an interior be far off?



There is one exceedingly minute goof visible in photo 18. The bottom 3 bolts of the vertical set attaching the differential housing on the left side were set with the nut on the outside of the tank because when they were placed like the others the end of the bolt and nut caught the driver's left foot. On some tanks, especially those rebuilt after the war, the whole vertical set on that side was "nut out".

KL
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 04:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The seam in the Sprockets will need filling, you can see it.



The gap should be filled but there were some that used a two-piece welded drum with a raised weld seam in that location.



KL
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 04:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The Instructions have the numbers on the end covers of the Drive unit reversed. The parts go as shown with the 3 holes on top.



That's because those three bolts also held the fender in place. If you show the tank without the fenders you'll need bolts there, and maybe bent sheet metal.

KL
ivanhoe6
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 12:39 PM UTC
Up to your old tricks again Donald. As a long time lurker, I really enjoy the presentations, dialogue, information of your builds! Thanks for all of your past efforts and looking forward to this one as I'm REALLY curious about the latest RFM offering.
wedgetail53
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 11:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

There's a lot of nice weld detail.


src="https://5z7jww.bn.files.1drv.com/y4mD1zFYeX2wWS6Y1xwfW6x0kbc2sBxFvUYexCRQckbRuf2w5-DUhFBrGsBwRrT9sZsPtXGt2fZf2PTYEVxpydQUmYh0URKEGJhb3pQlcSnmrxX8MOCR3jpv7RxQtUO8s4mV5eVHctZCljATZCTZjByXJa1DUli48KXtKcKbvQzigqgsbFNRqioRb343sBdf_Y72dmhiyutt9t80QQpDs0Opw?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none" width="660" height="495" />

Finished for now.
Donald



G'day Donald

Looking good. Just a small suggestion - drill out the ring at the top of the handle on the tow hook where your arrow is pointing.

Regards

Rob
JSSVIII
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 11:35 AM UTC
Nice work Donald, thank you for posting your progress!
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 10:03 AM UTC
A little more done.




A little more detailing and I can assemble them.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2019 - 11:55 AM UTC
The units don't articulate like the real ones, I'll just glue them in place when finished. These are a lot like the Taska kit units.



I'll install the Wheels after painting.

Finished for now.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 08, 2019 - 11:49 AM UTC
I have a little more assembled.
The seam in the Sprockets will need filling, you can see it.

Here too.