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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Building the RFM Sherman
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 - 07:54 AM UTC



I'll be installing the Formations Pioneer tools after painting.

Done for today.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 - 07:51 AM UTC
I have a little more finished.
I pre assembled the rear storage rack off the Hull, these are the Gun Cleaning Rods.



M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Monday, July 22, 2019 - 02:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text




The only thing I really really hate about doing a Sherman build is doing those Dammed Light Guards ( I hate Photo Etch)
Here's the completed upper front hull.


Finished for now.
Donald



Hi, Donald!

I think that this Front Glacis/Bow is MUCH BETTER with the Metal MG Barrel! That's EXACTLY the way I would have done it in this case, and very similar to what I do with all of my 1/35 Shermans! Using the PE Brush Guards for the Lights makes this model pop! I know that A LOT of guys don't like using PE, but I personally can't do without it! I LOVE that stuff!!!

GREAT WORK all the way through, so far. It'll be interesting to see what you'll be doing on this kit, next!
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 22, 2019 - 02:31 AM UTC



The only thing I really really hate about doing a Sherman build is doing those Dammed Light Guards ( I hate Photo Etch)
Here's the completed upper front hull.


Finished for now.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Monday, July 22, 2019 - 02:28 AM UTC
Now for something a little different.
I decided to replace the plastic Bow Mg. with a metal one.
Here is how I did it.

First removed the Gun barrel and drilled the ball mount to fit the new Gun.

There are 2 in the kit so if you screw up one you have a spare.

OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 21, 2019 - 01:29 AM UTC
Next I installed the Rear Armor Plate a really good fit here.

The Engine Deck was installed in 3 steps as shown leaving the Hatches for last as their edges wil need some sanding to get them to sit flush.

I trimmed a little too much on the corner.

You should pay special attention to where the Hatches touch as there's a burr from the sprue there and if not cleaned up the hatches can't sit flush.
Regards
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Sunday, July 21, 2019 - 01:23 AM UTC
Today I'll be assembling the main structure of the upper Hull.
First I installed and filled the seam on the edge of *&(*&**
I forget what you call it.
Then Installed the Front curved Fenders, And finally the Side Fenders.

I did the filling because I wasn't shure if these areas could be seen.
There's some really nice detailing going on here.

tangodown
#494
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New Brunswick, Canada
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2019 - 12:11 PM UTC
Oh man this is nice stuff. I hope they tackle some earlier versions I.E the M4A4 Sherman V and III.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2019 - 11:54 AM UTC
I started on the Upper Hull, Man it's really Niceeee




That's all for now.
Donald
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 08:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text







Finished for now.
Donald



Hi, Donald!

I like your technique in assembling these Tracks; I'm going to try your way of doing it when I get my kit...
27-1025
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 12:44 PM UTC
Looks terrific. Im sold on those completed tracks. Going to have to pick up this kit soon.
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 12:09 PM UTC
Yes they do look good, Nice Work.

Mark
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 10:17 AM UTC






Finished for now.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 10:06 AM UTC
And here it is, this will complete the assembly & install of the Track.
First the sections.





OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 10:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Donald: thanks for your pics of the track assembly. I think the "no glue" is for the jigs and the two big location lugs, not the center guide or the outer and inner pads themselves. I was going to use Asuka T80s (I had a set cleaned up, just waiting to be assembled) -- but your pics make the RFM one not seem so daunting.

I like how you painted the metal parts and rubber inner pad face before assembly. This is an chore with other T80 sets (like the Asuka ones).

I'm going to have a go at them!


They work quite well, I find it relaxing to clean and assemble them no thinking just do.
The rest of the work is coming when I get done here.
Donald
ericadeane
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 02:54 AM UTC
Donald: thanks for your pics of the track assembly. I think the "no glue" is for the jigs and the two big location lugs, not the center guide or the outer and inner pads themselves. I was going to use Asuka T80s (I had a set cleaned up, just waiting to be assembled) -- but your pics make the RFM one not seem so daunting.

I like how you painted the metal parts and rubber inner pad face before assembly. This is an chore with other T80 sets (like the Asuka ones).

I'm going to have a go at them!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 02:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text





I think it's easier to just do them one at a time, like I said I think the Jig is useless but if you want to do it that way Hey nock yourself out.
Donald



Hi, Donald!

Great work and great photo-documentation of it!

I've been following your build with great interest, as Shermans have always been "pets" of mine when it comes to 1/35 subject-matter.

I have only one small suggestion if I may, and I really don't mean to pick or "niggle"; please activate your "spell-check" in your computer's software...

Once again, GREAT photo-coverage!
Grindcore
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 02:35 AM UTC

Great thread!!! I picked up the kit from Sprue when they had their 15% off models week.
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 01:15 AM UTC




I think it's easier to just do them one at a time, like I said I think the Jig is useless but if you want to do it that way Hey nock yourself out.
Donald
OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 01:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The assembly jig is useless

. . .

Then you are supposed to press them down, but you can't without removing the parts joining them together.



??? - And the instructions say to do just that I don't think it is fair to say the jig is useless when you didn't follow the instructions for using it.

KL


Maby I didn't quite explain it clearly.
This might help.


OldWarloke
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Posted: Thursday, July 18, 2019 - 01:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the pics of your build. I got mine about ten days ago and poured a lot of time into building most of the assemblies. If I can add a few things:

1) I had no issues with the flush mounting of the HVSS vertical plates (A34) to the lower hull side. It was an exacting fit, but I didn't need to remove the 2 guide tabs. Mine fit great.

2) Part A37 of the HVSS is the bar which engages the springs. You should ensure a careful clean up of the end which faces outward. Indeed, most photos I've seen show a small hole at its center. I was careful to sand the outer end flush and added a hole. Even if you want to omit the drilling of the hole, please be sure to sand it flush.

3) My kit sample had a defect. The outer end of HVSS support arm A31 was a short shot. It required my making six shims so it could attach to outer securing part A30. I corresponded with Terry Ashley and none of his three kits had this defect. Donald's seems fine too. Only one other person I spoke with (Don Frandsen) had the defect. Not a big issue but an annoyance.

4) When attaching the engine grate props (A44 in step 13), know that RFM has at 0, complete vertical, from the side. They should be perpendicular to the slant of the corner engine deck itself. I cut a small wedge off the bottom of A44 and fitted the parts correctly. If you're unsure of what I'm describing, just consider that the opened engine grate doors would rest on the tops of A44. Thus A44 needs to be flush with the open doors. As RFM would have you do it, only a corner of A44 would be propping the open engine grate. Incorrect.

5)Although I'm not done, some final thoughts: it's a great kit and in whole, has more finesse than the Asuka kit (which previously, I couldn't imagine being surpassed). However, the features included in the kit limit one's finishing choices, if only building out of the box. "Paper Doll" in photos had the T66 tracks, not the T80s of the RFM kit. Also, the armored exhausts are extremely rare in WW2 photos. Most have the thin sheet metal exhausts louvers. Asuka's kit gives you both options for the exhaust louvers.

For a more common WW2 tank, you'll need to secure the more common exhaust louvers. For a more common Korean war tank, you'll need to secure a First Aid box, rear telephone, newer gun tube lock and often, the engine hatch torsion bars. I have a deep spares box so I can mix and match. Ultimately, I'm planning on making the RFM kit into a Korean war tank -- this is just a heads up on an otherwise marvelous job by RFM.

As I stated earlier, I thought the Asuka kits were the ultimate version of this 1/35 subject. I'm happy to say I'm mistaken.


I quite agree
Donald
ericadeane
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Michigan, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 11:31 PM UTC
Thanks for the pics of your build. I got mine about ten days ago and poured a lot of time into building most of the assemblies. If I can add a few things:

1) I had no issues with the flush mounting of the HVSS vertical plates (A34) to the lower hull side. It was an exacting fit, but I didn't need to remove the 2 guide tabs. Mine fit great.

2) Part A37 of the HVSS is the bar which engages the springs. You should ensure a careful clean up of the end which faces outward. Indeed, most photos I've seen show a small hole at its center. I was careful to sand the outer end flush and added a hole. Even if you want to omit the drilling of the hole, please be sure to sand it flush.

3) My kit sample had a defect. The outer end of HVSS support arm A31 was a short shot. It required my making six shims so it could attach to outer securing part A30. I corresponded with Terry Ashley and none of his three kits had this defect. Donald's seems fine too. Only one other person I spoke with (Don Frandsen) had the defect. Not a big issue but an annoyance.

4) When attaching the engine grate props (A44 in step 13), know that RFM has at 0, complete vertical, from the side. They should be perpendicular to the slant of the corner engine deck itself. I cut a small wedge off the bottom of A44 and fitted the parts correctly. If you're unsure of what I'm describing, just consider that the opened engine grate doors would rest on the tops of A44. Thus A44 needs to be flush with the open doors. As RFM would have you do it, only a corner of A44 would be propping the open engine grate. Incorrect.

5)Although I'm not done, some final thoughts: it's a great kit and in whole, has more finesse than the Asuka kit (which previously, I couldn't imagine being surpassed). However, the features included in the kit limit one's finishing choices, if only building out of the box. "Paper Doll" in photos had the T66 tracks, not the T80s of the RFM kit. Also, the armored exhausts are extremely rare in WW2 photos. Most have the thin sheet metal exhausts louvers. Asuka's kit gives you both options for the exhaust louvers.

For a more common WW2 tank, you'll need to secure the more common exhaust louvers. For a more common Korean war tank, you'll need to secure a First Aid box, rear telephone, newer gun tube lock and often, the engine hatch torsion bars. I have a deep spares box so I can mix and match. Ultimately, I'm planning on making the RFM kit into a Korean war tank -- this is just a heads up on an otherwise marvelous job by RFM.

As I stated earlier, I thought the Asuka kits were the ultimate version of this 1/35 subject. I'm happy to say I'm mistaken.
KurtLaughlin
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Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 03:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The assembly jig is useless

. . .

Then you are supposed to press them down, but you can't without removing the parts joining them together.



??? - And the instructions say to do just that I don't think it is fair to say the jig is useless when you didn't follow the instructions for using it.

KL
JSSVIII
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 11:34 AM UTC
Those look really good Donald, thanks for showing the process (and how it compares with the kit instruction method). Very useful post!
OldWarloke
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Posted: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 - 09:14 AM UTC
Then install the rubber pad I worked down one side thed up the other.

This is the results.

I just have to remove the edge parts & touch up the paint.

It's very flexable.


I just did 1 section for testing & to show you how it goes together, I have a lot more to do and it's going to take some time.
Donald