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Cold War (1950-1974)
Discuss the aircraft modeling subjects during the Cold War period.
Hosted by Tim Hatton
weatheren vietnam camouflage
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,172 posts
AeroScale: 1,586 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 01:17 AM UTC

what are you guys&girls using for weathering en for panel lines on this green/green/tan camouflage
Alabama, United States
Joined: June 17, 2014
KitMaker: 121 posts
AeroScale: 118 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 05:02 AM UTC
My go to wash for aircraft is a mix of burnt umber and black. Particularly around engine panels. Aircraft engines are notoriously dirty and the panels in their vicinity show it. On jet engines I'd lean a little more towards the black, and on recip (piston) engines a little more towards the brownish. Recip engines throw a lot of oil hence the brownish, and the jets are pretty sooty. I like flat black (blacker the better) for flight controls and any part that is actually separate from the main airframe, speed brakes, landing gear doors etc. in cases where the moveable part is molded on instead of a separate piece. I use thinned enamels for my washes, they're thinner, flow better and don't bead up like anything water-based, but this may vary depending on what you're using for your base paint.
California, United States
Joined: July 30, 2010
KitMaker: 133 posts
AeroScale: 94 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 12:40 PM UTC
Well before you get to the washes, you can achieve some good faded, patchy look in the camo pattern during the initial painting phase.
Prime the model in a light color, preshade the panel lines. Start with a thin base coat of the tan color, don't try for even coverage, leave it thin in some places and thicker in others. Then spray on your camo colors using the same technique, leaving it thin in some spots so a hint of the base coat shows through. You can also mix lighter shades of each camo color and apply patches of that to break up the colors.
After that you can try what we armor modelers do and use oil paints and the dot method to create tonal changes in the colors. If you gloss coat with future or any other acrylic gloss first you'll have a little more control, however if you apply the method straight to flat colors it gives it a grainier sun-bleached look. Just make sure you protect the colors with an acrylic clear coat before applying oils due to the strength of the thinner.
Finally, after that is all dried, you can come back with the oils again for the panel line wash (personal preference of course, I happen to like the control with oil washes).

Keep in mind your decals, those markings will fade too so you may want to apply them before the oil weathering. I like to give the model a thin dusting of a tan color to tone down the brightness of the decals and tie them in to the model better.

Hope that makes some sense.
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 10,688 posts
AeroScale: 7,370 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 07:37 PM UTC
Tough question. Ask a 100 modelers and you'll get 100 different answers. Here's my general procedures.

All aircraft operating from airfields in SEA, took a beating from the tropical humid and hot conditions. Paint faded unevenly on the top, but not so much on the bottom. As usual, the bottom got the majority of the ground dirt, oil, and leaking fluids from vents and refills. And everything received a healthy dose of dust.

I prime everything with Tamiya Gray Primer via my airbrush, rather then the rattle can.

I generally don't pre-shade. What looks good under one color tends to look either to pronounced under lighter colors or fades to nothing under darker colors. Done right it's a excellent technique, but done wrong it looks more like a checkerboard then paint fading and weathering.

Each color is applied as slightly uneven coats. Then a more blotchy application is airbrushed on lightening each color a few tones. What color you use to do that is up to you. For areas that don't receive much sunlight, I go with a slightly darker color for the blotchy effect.


Pin wash for recessed panel lines are done by going a few shades darker then the base color. Very time consuming, but effective. Flying surfaces are done in Black or Nato Black. Using black for pin washes has the effect of highlighting those panel lines too much, rather then becoming part of the whole. I guess you can call this scale effect. I like to use Model Master enamels for this.


Sludge wash rubbed off unevenly. Center of panels receive the most rubbing. Streak it along rivet lines and panel lines. Usually an Acrylic base for me.


Dot method with enamels/oils.

Airbrush a light coat of dust/earth or any earth tone.



European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,172 posts
AeroScale: 1,586 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 - 02:07 AM UTC
Thanks for the information

I will carefully try "something" based on yourinput.

Pictures of the result will follow