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How do I stop masking bleed.?
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: October 25, 2005
KitMaker: 947 posts
AeroScale: 492 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 03:11 PM UTC
Once again I need to pick your brains.
I been practicing masking and then spraying with a rattle can.
I tend to get bleeding under the tape and also a ridge forms at the tape.
Am I right in assuming that I'm not applying the paint in thin enough coats and that I'm not removing the tape as soon as I've finished,rather than removing after paint has dried?

Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 03:27 PM UTC
Hi Chris ! I still have the same problem as well , what I have been doing of late is after the masking tape is down . I spray it with a clear coat first . If it's forming up along the edge of the tape , you are correct . I never did like spray cans . And yes light coats , might take a few , but you will get better results . I do know that you can get very thin masking tape and comes in different sizes , Tamiya has it and there is a few more . I have some just haven't used it yet so I don't know how they work . Yet !
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 18, 2005
KitMaker: 230 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 03:50 PM UTC
If you're using acrylic paints, there is a new masking tape on the market that prevents bleeding, but only for acrylics. I haven't seen it or tried it, just saw an ad for it the other day. Not even sure if it has any use in modeling (may be too thick or aggressive), but I sure want to try it out and see.
It's called frog tape, and here is a link:


England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 18, 2006
KitMaker: 2,828 posts
AeroScale: 1,720 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 01:38 AM UTC
I use Tamiya Masking tapes exclusively for my canopy maskings. After applying the tape and cutting the framing out, I normally cut the end off of a cocktail stick and then "burnish" the remaining tape down.

I would also If using a rattle can spray several light coats and remove the tape once the paint was touch dry but not fully cured.

Hope this helps

Colorado, United States
Joined: July 25, 2007
KitMaker: 886 posts
AeroScale: 332 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 02:00 AM UTC
burnishing the tape down really good and light coats will work.
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,172 posts
AeroScale: 1,586 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 02, 2008 - 04:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

burnishing the tape down really good and light coats will work.

and use several thin coats instad of one thick one

and spray "away" from the edge of the mask and never towards it

Oregon, United States
Joined: March 09, 2007
KitMaker: 104 posts
AeroScale: 37 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 04:04 PM UTC
Before each color, lay down a thin coat of clear. If it's a glossy surface, use gloss clear, if it's flat, then use flat clear. I do this when painting multi colored paint jobs on model cars, and that's one subject where the demarcation line has to be FLAWLESS. Works like a charm. You are getting some bleed under from the clear, but being clear you don't notice it. The clear will also seal the edge of the tape.
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 23, 2005
KitMaker: 6,238 posts
AeroScale: 3,269 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 28, 2009 - 10:59 PM UTC
Hi Chris.
The bleeding is caused by the paint being forced under the tape.
If you spray directly down onto the tape this should eliminate the bleed.
As everyone has said, thin coats is the way to go.
Hope this helps