login   |    register
Start Here (for Beginners)
This forum is for younger modelers or people just starting out in the hobby.
Hosted by Kevin Brant
Reading the Seams
Jessie_C
_VISITCOMMUNITY
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,696 posts
AeroScale: 5,993 posts
Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 - 06:59 AM UTC
Give it a shot and see what happens. You may need to resort to more aggressive fillers if it doesn't work. The trick with eliminating seams is being persistent.
warreni
_VISITCOMMUNITY
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,851 posts
AeroScale: 2,181 posts
Posted: Friday, November 15, 2013 - 07:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ok, I tried that last night, now the seams on the bottom of the fuselage are slightly less noticeable, but still visible enough to bother me. Should I try to use Mr. Surfacer to fill in the gaps?



Mr Surfacer will fill the gap very well. Or you could use Liquid Putty from the same company.. A bit finer..
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United Kingdom
Joined: June 11, 2003
KitMaker: 17,111 posts
AeroScale: 12,620 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 11:48 AM UTC
Hi Kevin

My favourite filler for tasks like this is a trick I learned in the early days of Armorama - probably the best tip I've ever picked up! - "Supafiller" (a mix of superglue and talcum powder). Neat superglue works as a filler too, but the resulting joint is often harder than the surrounding plastic. The beauty of "Supafiller" is that it dries quickly, doesn't attack the plastic (but don't use it on clear parts - it'll fog them), doesn't shrink and is easy to sand - and, importantly, is about the same density as styrene.

Basically, pour a drop of superglue onto a palette and mix in some talcum powder until it has the consistency of toothpaste. I apply it with a toothpick and it sticks like the proverbial "poo to a blanket". You can quickly build it up in layers for major modifications.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 9,341 posts
AeroScale: 7,290 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 05:31 AM UTC
Kevin, I feel your pain. Small seam lines always are the hardest to deal with. Squadron Green or White putty just doesn't work very well in that situation. It's not that it doesn't fill the recess, it does, but wet sanding removes the top layer and some of the recessed layer, so that you have either the same indent, or it's slightly less, but you still have it.

I use 4 alternate solutions:

1- I thin Squadron Green stuff with Tamiya Xtra Thin glue till it's a very soft like paste. Then using a small flat dental or sculpting tool, I apply small dollops to the seam and really push it in. Let dry and repeat. Let dry and dry sand. Even when I polish that seam, I don't use wet paper, as I'm concerned that the water will dissolve some of the Green stuff.

2-Thick Super Glue. Again, I apply it in dollops, smooth. Let dry, then a 2nd coat. Let dry, and wet sand. Regular Super glue is usually too thin to fill anything but a scratch. Several coats are needed. Never tried the Talcum powder method, but it seams that it makes the Super Glue thicker as well. A option I will have to try myself.

3- As Jessica alluded to, you can always use stretched sprue or plastic rod to fill slightly deeper seams. I've used this method many times. Sand when dry, then a coat of my thinned green stuff to finish off the procedure.

4- I've also used Tamiya's regular Gray Primer straight from the bottle applied in a few heavy coats. Fills small seams and scratches as well.

Just take your time, repeat as necessary. All plastic joints that were joined with plastic cement will have some melting of the plastic. When you don't get it to bubble up, there is usually a concave seam left to deal with. Believe me I know. I'm an expert at getting that concave seam line.

Joel
FinneganBojangles
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 01, 2013
KitMaker: 60 posts
AeroScale: 56 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 11:55 AM UTC
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I'll give it another go during my days off of work this week.
FinneganBojangles
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 01, 2013
KitMaker: 60 posts
AeroScale: 56 posts
Posted: Friday, November 22, 2013 - 03:08 PM UTC
As an update, I tried the "Supafiller" Rowan suggested, mixing talcum powder with CA glue. It works wonderfully well. It's quick drying and although I can still see the seam, it's completely smooth. The real test of course will be priming the model, but I'm confident at this point I won't have to touch it up.
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 9,341 posts
AeroScale: 7,290 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 24, 2013 - 04:30 AM UTC
Kevin, glad that method worked. Going to be trying it myself in a day or two.
Joel
drabslab
_VISITCOMMUNITY
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,149 posts
AeroScale: 1,581 posts
Posted: Monday, May 01, 2017 - 01:57 PM UTC
Hoi,

I am just bumping this,

Because soemone of my local hobby club asked, and because it is such an interesting topic